这道梅菜扣肉，是我家年夜饭的“压轴戏”，肥而不腻，入口即化，难道还不够诱人吗？

年夜饭桌上，真要论哪道菜最能拿住人心，梅菜扣肉肯定得占一席。肉皮红亮，肥肉颤巍巍，梅菜吸饱了油脂和肉香，往白米饭上一压，山东老爷们儿都得先狠狠干上两大口。很多人一听这菜就犯怵，觉得是大菜，费事，容易翻车。可真细掰扯，这道菜讲究的不是花活，是耐心，是火候，是把肉和菜都伺候明白。

这篇里先把门道摆清楚：梅菜扣肉好吃，靠的是五个环节，提前处理、煮肉去腥、上色炸皮、炒梅菜提香、码碗蒸透倒扣。原文的主线很直白，就是告诉人别被大菜吓住，家里照样能做出饭店那股子味儿。查了一些老菜谱和各地做法，像广东客家菜、江浙酒席菜里，梅菜扣肉都是靠长时间蒸制把油脂逼进梅菜里，让肉更软烂、菜更入味，这个逻辑和家常做法是对得上的。

先说食材。五花肉得选层次分明的，太瘦了发柴，太肥了又腻，三层肉最稳当。梅干菜最好提前泡开，反复冲洗，把沙子和咸味先处理掉。不少人就是栽在这一步，梅菜没洗干净，吃着硌牙，整盘菜都受影响。肉和菜这对搭档，讲究一个互相成全，不是一个劲猛堆调料就行。

先前一天准备，确实有道理。梅干菜得提前泡，五花肉也得先焯。焯肉不是随便在水里滚两下，冷水下锅，放点姜片、葱段、料酒，煮到肉表面变色，撇净浮沫，这一步是把血水和腥味都请出去。老辈人做席面，最怕腥气压住肉香，所以这一步看着慢，实际上很值。

焯完的肉要趁热处理。肉皮这一面是整道菜的门面，得用牙签或者叉子扎一扎，扎得密一点，后面上色和蒸的时候才容易入味。还有的人会在皮上抹一点老抽，控干后下锅炸，这样皮会起泡，颜色也更漂亮。山东这边做菜，讲究一个实在，不玩虚的，颜色要到位，香气也要到位，端上桌得有面儿。

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http://www.blog.bojuemuye.com/ArTicle/details/81136499.sHtML说到上色，很多人觉得只是图个好看，其实不是。上色这一步，除了老抽提色，还能让肉皮在高温里收紧，后面蒸出来更有弹性。做得讲究一点的，还会先把肉皮朝下炸一下，油温不能太低，低了不上色，太高了容易崩油。下锅那一瞬间，油花子一炸，厨房就有了过年味。这里最重要的是安全，锅里别有水，手上别带湿气，离远点，省得烫着。

炸完的五花肉要马上泡凉水，很多人看到这一步纳闷，刚炸完还往凉水里放，不怕凉坏了？这叫给肉皮快速回缩，形成虎皮纹路，皮更脆更弹。老菜谱里这个动作很常见，广式和客家做法也都爱这么干。肉皮起皱后，切出来的扣肉才有那种一片一片的劲儿，不是软塌塌的一坨。

梅菜的灵魂在炒。别把它当配角，没这一步，整盘菜就少了魂。泡好的梅干菜挤干水分，锅里少放点油，先下姜末、蒜末，炒出香味，再下梅干菜慢慢煸。有人图省事，梅菜一倒锅里就完事，那样出来的菜水气重，香味也出不来。要把梅菜里的水汽炒掉一些，让它先香起来，再加生抽、少许老抽、糖提鲜，有条件的还能加一点点八角粉或者五香粉，别太重，重了就抢味。

梅菜炒到发散，带点油润感，这时候才算能上场。它不是单独负责咸，更多是负责解腻、提香、托肉味。梅干菜本身有一种独特的发酵香，像老屋檐下晒过太阳的味道，朴素，但很抓人。也难怪这道菜在客家地区、江南地区都这么受欢迎，都是重油菜里的一把好手。

接下来是码碗。先把肉切成均匀的厚片，别切太薄，薄了蒸完容易散，没嚼头；也别太厚，厚了不容易入味。切好的肉片皮朝下，一片挨一片地码进碗里，排得整整齐齐，像在给一家人排座次。上面铺上炒好的梅菜，压实一点，让梅菜和肉贴紧。很多老厨子都知道，扣肉好不好，码碗时就定了半成。

这时候的调味汁也得跟上。生抽、少许老抽、料酒、白糖、胡椒粉，加一点清水调匀，沿着碗边浇进去。糖不是让菜变甜，而是压住咸味、提亮味道。北方人做菜，往往容易手重，尤其是大席菜，盐一多就发苦。梅干菜本身也带咸，所以这盘菜最怕失手，宁可淡一点，出锅再看。

蒸，才是这道菜最磨人的地方。很多人说自己做扣肉总不如饭店，问题就出在蒸的时间短了，火候不够。梅菜扣肉讲究的是长时间加热，让肉里的脂肪慢慢化开，渗进梅菜，梅菜再把味道吸回来。一般上锅后要蒸足时间，常见做法是大火烧开后转中小火，保持稳定蒸汽，不急不躁。老辈人说，做这菜得有点等劲儿，跟熬日子似的，火候到了，肉自然就服帖了。

也有人喜欢用高压锅省时间，可高压锅虽然快，香气层次总觉得少一点。传统蒸法慢，但出来的肉更软烂，皮更糯，梅菜也更入味。原文里说蒸是一场时间的魔法，这话不夸张。肉在蒸汽里慢慢散开，油脂和调料一点点合在一起，最后形成那种入口即化的口感，不是靠猛火硬冲出来的。

蒸好以后别急着掀盖，先焖一会儿，让热气缓一缓。接着就是最有仪式感的一步，倒扣。盘子往碗上一盖，手腕一翻，整碗菜啪一下扣出来，红亮的肉片整整齐齐铺在上头，梅菜在下面托着，立马就有席面味了。这个动作要稳，山东人讲究稳当，别慌，越慌越容易洒汤。

倒出来以后，锅里剩下的汤汁别倒掉，那可是精华。把汤汁滤一下，去掉杂质，锅里加一点水淀粉勾个薄芡，淋回盘里，颜色和口感都能提一截。芡不能厚，厚了发黏，扣肉吃起来就不利索了。最后撒一点葱花，绿白一配，盘子立马精神起来。

真正端上桌的时候，场面就出来了。夹一片肉，先是皮，弹；再是肥肉，化；再是瘦肉，丝丝分明。梅菜吸了肉汁以后，咸香里带着一点回甘，拿来拌米饭最过瘾。饭粒子裹着汤汁，香得人筷子都停不住。家里有老人，爱吃这种软烂的；孩子呢，看见红亮亮的一盘，也容易多扒两口饭。

这道菜还有个很实在的地方，就是耐放。做一大碗，第二天再热一遍，味道往往更稳。因为肉和梅菜继续互相渗味，香气更深。老家过年、待客、办酒席，梅菜扣肉常常是压轴菜，原因不复杂，够硬，够香，够有体面。你端出这盘，亲戚朋友一看，就知道这家人舍得下功夫。

现在不少人平时图快，做菜喜欢十分钟出锅，可梅菜扣肉这种菜，本来就不是赶工活。它需要洗、泡、煮、炸、炒、蒸，一步都不能糊弄。也正因为这样，它才显得珍贵。一个家里，能坐下来等一锅肉慢慢蒸熟，等汤汁慢慢收住，等那股子香气从厨房飘到屋里，这种日子，本身就挺踏实。