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处暑后别乱补!多吃4样“黄金根菜”,脾胃越吃越暖,秋冬不咳嗽

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处暑一过,暑热渐退,秋燥始显,民间素有此际“贴秋膘”之说,然今人多肥甘厚味有余,而脾土运化不足,若盲目进补油腻滋腻之品,反易壅滞中焦,生湿生痰,至深秋隆冬,咳嗽便迁延难愈。实则秋补之要,不在荤腥,而在“以土养土”——根茎类蔬菜深埋地中,得坤土之气最厚,性味多甘平或温润,最宜健脾和胃、培土生金。今特选四样“黄金根菜”:山药、红薯、芋头、莲藕,或煮汤,或焖烧,或糖水,或炖煲,令脾胃渐暖,气血自生,肺卫得固,则秋冬咳嗽之疾,自然远去。以下四道家常药膳,做法详尽,诸君可按需取用。



一:山药栗子煨土鸡汤

所需食材:铁棍山药300克,去壳板栗仁150克,土鸡半只(约750克),生姜5片,红枣6枚,枸杞10克,黄酒2汤匙,食盐适量,白胡椒粉少许。

步骤:

1. 土鸡斩去头尾及肥脂,剁成约4厘米见方的块,置于清水中浸泡30分钟,中途换水两次,以去尽血水,沥干备用。

2. 铁棍山药戴手套削去外皮,切作滚刀块,即刻浸入淡盐水中,防止氧化变黑;板栗仁洗净,对半切开;红枣去核,生姜切片。

3. 取大砂锅,注入足量清水(约3升),冷水下入鸡块,开大火煮沸,撇净浮沫,加入姜片和黄酒,转中小火慢炖40分钟。

4. 将板栗仁和红枣投入砂锅,继续炖煮25分钟,至板栗初现粉糯,汤色微黄。

5. 捞出山药块,沥去盐水,放入锅中,同时加入枸杞,调至小火,再煲20分钟,期间用汤勺轻轻搅动,防山药粘底。

6. 待鸡肉酥烂脱骨、山药用筷子可轻松穿透时,调入食盐,注意盐需分次少量加入,边加边尝,以免过咸。

7. 关火前撒入白胡椒粉,利用余温搅匀,静置5分钟,使胡椒辛温之性与汤味融合,即可盛碗享用。

1. 山药黏液所含皂苷易致手部瘙痒,务必佩戴手套处理;若已接触,可用白醋搓洗双手后再以温水冲净。

2. 板栗宜选用新鲜去壳的饱满果仁,冷冻板栗口感稍逊;炖煮时间不宜过久,否则易碎成糊,影响汤色清亮。

3. 此汤性温,外感风热、咽喉肿痛者暂时不宜食用;平日怕冷、便溏者,可酌情增加生姜至七八片,以助温中散寒。



二:红薯姜枣陈皮糖水

所需食材:红心红薯400克,老姜30克,去核红枣10枚,新会陈皮1瓣(约3克),红糖50克,清水1.5升,干桂花少许(点缀用)。

步骤:

1. 红薯刷洗干净外皮,削去薄皮,切成约2厘米厚的半月形片,放入大碗中,加足量清水浸泡,换水三次,洗去表面淀粉,至水清为止。

2. 老姜用刀背拍裂,无需切片,以便姜味缓慢释放;陈皮用温水浸泡15分钟,刮去内囊白膜,剪成细丝备用。

3. 砂锅内注入1.5升清水,放入拍裂的姜块和红枣,大火烧沸后转中火,煮约10分钟,至枣香飘出。

4. 将泡好的红薯片沥干水分,入锅同煮,再次煮沸后撇去少量浮沫,加盖转小火,慢煮20分钟。

5. 放入陈皮丝,继续煮10分钟,此时红薯已绵软,用竹签可轻松扎透,糖水色泽转为浅褐。

6. 加入红糖,不断搅拌至完全融化,再煮5分钟,使糖、姜、枣、陈皮的滋味充分交融,熄火。

7. 静置晾至温热,盛入碗中,撒上干桂花点缀,不仅增香,亦助疏肝解郁,可趁热或温饮,不宜冷食。

1. 红薯务必选用红心或黄心品种,其含糖量高、纤维细,煮后口感软糯;白心薯淀粉多,适合蒸食,不宜做糖水。

2. 陈皮以新会产三年以上者为佳,内囊务必刮净,否则久煮易发苦;若无可不用,但风味稍逊。

3. 糖尿病患者或血糖偏高者,可将红糖替换为甜菊叶或代糖,并减少红薯用量,且不宜空腹饮用。



三:芋头腐乳焖鸭块

所需食材:荔浦芋头500克,鸭腿肉2只(约600克),红腐乳3块(带汁1汤匙),八角2个,桂皮1小段,香叶3片,生姜5片,大蒜瓣6粒,生抽2汤匙,老抽1汤匙,冰糖10克,黄酒3汤匙,食用油适量,开水足量。

步骤:

1. 鸭腿斩成约3厘米见方的小块,冷水下锅,加2片姜和1汤匙黄酒,大火煮沸焯烫3分钟,捞出用温水冲净浮沫,沥干。

2. 芋头戴手套削皮,切成与鸭块相仿的滚刀块,放入清水中浸泡,避免接触空气变红;红腐乳用勺背压成泥,与腐乳汁、生抽、老抽调匀成酱汁。

3. 炒锅烧热,倒入少许食用油,油温六成时下入姜片、蒜瓣、八角、桂皮、香叶,小火煸出香气,注意香料勿炒焦。

4. 转中火,倒入鸭块,煸炒至鸭皮微黄出油,沿锅边淋入剩余黄酒,快速翻炒,去腥增香。

5. 将调好的腐乳酱汁倒入锅中,翻炒均匀,使每块鸭肉裹上酱色,加入冰糖,再倒入足量开水,水量需没过鸭块约1厘米。

6. 大火烧开后,加盖转小火焖煮30分钟,然后放入沥干的芋头块,轻轻推匀,继续焖煮20分钟,期间翻动两次,防芋头粘底。

7. 开盖转大火收汁,待汤汁浓稠至能挂附在鸭块和芋头上时,尝味调整盐分(腐乳已有咸度,一般无需加盐),即可出锅装盘。

1. 处理芋头时务必佩戴手套,其草酸钙针晶易刺激皮肤;若不慎沾到,可用生姜片擦拭痒处,或火上稍烤片刻缓解。

2. 焖煮过程中尽量少开盖,以保持锅内恒温,使鸭肉更快酥烂;若中途水干,务必添加开水,忌加冷水,以免肉质紧缩。

3. 腐乳咸度不一,酱油亦有差异,收汁前再定盐味最为稳妥;此菜隔夜回热后风味更佳,但需冷藏保存,两天内食完。

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四:莲藕花生炖猪蹄

所需食材:粉藕(九孔藕)600克,红皮花生仁100克,猪前蹄1只(约800克),墨鱼干30克(可选),生姜4片,小葱结1个,白醋几滴,料酒2汤匙,食盐适量,枸杞10克。

步骤:

1. 猪蹄刮净残毛,斩成小块,冷水浸泡1小时,换水三次;而后冷水下锅,加料酒和2片姜,煮沸焯水5分钟,撇尽浮沫,捞出用热水洗净。

2. 红皮花生洗净,用温水提前浸泡2小时;墨鱼干剪成条状,温水泡发半小时,撕去黑膜;莲藕削去外皮,切滚刀块,浸入加白醋的清水中防变色。

3. 取大汤煲,加入足量清水(约3.5升),放入猪蹄、姜片、葱结和泡好的墨鱼干,大火烧沸后转中小火,慢炖1小时。

4. 将泡好的花生连同泡水(若水干净)一并倒入煲中,继续炖煮30分钟,此时汤色渐白,花生开始变软。

5. 捞出莲藕块,沥水入煲,转小火,加盖再炖40分钟,期间需撇去表面浮油,使汤清味醇。

6. 待猪蹄皮肉能用筷子轻松戳透、莲藕呈粉糯质地时,加入枸杞,并调入食盐,盐需分两次加入,第一次调七分味,关火前再补足。

7. 关火后焖10分钟,让盐味充分渗入食材,弃去葱结和姜片,盛碗后可根据喜好撒葱花或香菜,趁热食用。

1. 莲藕有脆藕与粉藕之分,炖汤务必选粉藕,其特征为外皮呈黄褐色、麻点多、孔数多为九个(九孔藕),切面有藕丝,久煮易绵糯。

2. 花生红衣补血,但若消化功能极弱者,可去皮后使用;另花生易发霉,需选颗粒饱满、无霉味者,泡发后若水变色则弃用。

3. 此汤胶质丰富,冷却后成冻属正常现象,复热即可;高血脂及痛风急性期患者慎食,可将猪蹄改为排骨,并延长焯水时间以去部分嘌呤。



以上四道根菜佳肴,均取法自然,以温平之性扶助中阳,处暑之后,每隔三日择其一而食之,既避羊肉、狗肉之燥烈,又免阿胶、人参之滋腻,使脾胃渐得濡养,肺气随之充盛。需知秋令主收,饮食宜缓不宜急,每餐七分饱,汤羹趁热啜,夜间忌生冷瓜果,晨起可啜少许姜枣茶,内外兼修,方为养生正道。待霜降过后,天寒地坼时,但觉手足温和、咳喘稀发,便知此季根基已固。愿诸君善用大地馈赠之“黄金”,于烟火灶火间,烹出一年安康。若试做有成,不妨记录食后体感,来日再叙冬藏之要。
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