炖汤别只会加水，记住这3点，汤鲜味浓不油腻

很多人炖汤，习惯把食材往锅里一丢，加满水，开火就炖。结果炖出来的汤要么寡淡无味，要么油腻腻一层浮油，喝两口就腻了。

其实炖汤这件事，说难不难，说简单也不简单。我炖了十几年汤，翻过车、浪费过好食材，也跟广东朋友学过煲汤的门道，慢慢才明白：一锅好汤的关键，往往不在食材多贵，而在几个容易被忽略的细节里。

记住下面这3点，你炖的汤也能汤鲜味浓、清爽不油腻。

第一点：肉类先“焯”再“煎”，汤才不浑不腥

很多人炖汤第一步就错了——把排骨、鸡肉直接下锅加水炖。这样炖出来的汤，血沫混在汤里，汤色浑浊，腥味也重。

正确的做法是两步走：

第一步，冷水下锅焯水。肉类一定要冷水下锅，加几片姜、一勺料酒，慢慢加热。随着水温升高，肉里的血水和杂质会慢慢析出，形成浮沫。水开后撇干净浮沫，再煮一两分钟捞出，用温水冲洗干净。

注意是温水，不是冷水。冷水一激，肉质骤缩，后面炖出来就容易柴。

第二步，少油煎一下。这是很多人不知道的秘诀。焯好水的肉，锅里放一点点油，中火煎到表面微微金黄。煎过的肉，脂肪被逼出一部分，炖出来的汤不油腻；同时肉表面产生美拉德反应，香味物质加倍，汤自然更鲜更浓。

煎完直接加开水，大火烧开，汤色很快就变白了。这一步做完，你的汤已经赢在起跑线上了。

第二点：水一次加够，火候分三段

炖汤最忌讳的就是中途加水。汤汁正浓的时候加一碗冷水下去，温度骤降，肉质收缩，鲜味物质释放中断，汤的味道直接掉一个档次。

所以水要一次加够，一般食材和水的比例在1:2到1:3之间。如果实在中途发现水不够，一定要加开水，不要加冷水。

火候也有讲究，记住九个字：大火烧，中火炖，小火煨。

大火烧：加开水后大火煮沸，让汤翻滚起来，脂肪和蛋白质充分乳化，汤色变白变浓。

中火炖：煮沸后转中火，保持汤面微微沸腾，炖20-30分钟，让食材的味道充分释放。

小火煨：最后转最小火，汤面似开非开，煨1-2小时。这一步是让汤“入味”的关键，时间会把食材的精华一点点逼出来，汤越来越醇厚。

有人问炖多久合适？排骨、鸡一般1.5小时左右，老鸭、牛腩可以到2-3小时，鱼汤则短一些，40分钟到1小时就够了。时间太短味不足，太长则肉散汤浊。

第三点：盐最后放，配料做减法

这一点看似简单，却是最多人踩坑的地方。

盐一定要最后放，出锅前5-10分钟再加。为什么？因为盐会让蛋白质凝固。如果一开始就加盐，肉表面的蛋白质遇盐收缩，里面的鲜味物质就释放不出来了，炖再久也是“外咸内柴”，汤也不鲜。最后放盐，肉已经炖透，鲜味全在汤里，这时候加盐只是调味，不影响口感。

配料也要做减法。很多人炖汤喜欢放一堆东西：八角、桂皮、香叶、花椒……结果一锅汤全是香料味，喝不出食材本身的鲜。

记住一个原则：炖汤的配料，越少越好。姜片去腥、葱段提香，这两样就够了。想喝原汁原味的，连葱都可以不放。如果是药膳汤，加红枣、枸杞、党参这类温和的配料，也不要超过两三样，否则味道互相打架，反而失了主味。

还有一个小技巧：出锅前撇一次油。如果汤面浮油比较多，用勺子轻轻撇掉一层，汤立刻清爽很多。或者放几片吸油纸，也能吸走多余油脂。http://share.wdgood.cn/Article/details/00768.sHtML
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http://baike.shoupintang.cn/Article/details/05240.sHtML

炖汤这件事，急不得。你给它时间，它还你味道。

焯水去腥、煎出香味，是打好底子；一次加够水、三段火候，是稳住节奏；最后放盐、配料减法，是画龙点睛。

这三点做到位，哪怕是最普通的排骨萝卜汤，也能炖出饭店的水平。周末有空的时候，不妨试试看。一锅好汤端上桌，热气腾腾的，家人一人一碗，那种满足感，比什么山珍海味都实在。

毕竟，炖的是汤，暖的是心。