大暑喝汤一年安康，多给家人喝这3道汤平安度夏

我爸妈最爱在大暑前后说一句话：热天吃不下去不行，光喝冷的也顶不住。前两天我在厨房忙活，锅里咕嘟咕嘟响着，老两口坐那儿边看我切菜边问，今天又整啥汤？我说清爽点的，别炒菜那股烫口劲儿。话音刚落，我俩儿子就围过来，一人一句：喝汤行，别太苦，太油也不行。

其实这就是很多家庭的真实场景。天气一热，炒菜要么太烫口，口感过猛；要么你少油少盐吧味道又淡，想吃点有味的又怕油腻。光靠冷饮顶着也不行，正餐还是得有热量、有水分、有点汤汤水水的东西，让胃里舒服点，让一家人吃得踏实。

大暑还剩两天，我家饭桌的选择就很明确。不是每天都喝，更不搞一锅神仙补品，而是轮着来。清淡有汤水，原料尽量简单，做法分三路：一种更清爽，一种可以快手解决饿得快的问题，另一种就是有空慢慢炖的。家里谁今天胃口好谁先吃，老人孩子喜欢啥就往哪边靠。

第一个我常端上桌的是苦瓜黄豆鲍鱼排骨汤。说白了，夏天嘴巴发干的时候，清爽这口最能救场。苦瓜天生带点清苦味，很多人怕苦，其实不必硬扛。你处理得干净，炖的时候别乱放调料，味道就不会单调，反而很顺口。

我给家里孩子的标准是，苦瓜要嫩，籽要去得干净。切成小块，入口才不会发涩发硬。黄豆需要提前泡一小时左右，泡开才容易出香味，也更好炖烂。鲍鱼我一般用温水稍微泡一下，把杂质清洗干净，别让那股味道进汤里。排骨这一步更要讲究，冷水下锅，放几片生姜和一个葱结，等煮沸之后撇去浮沫，再把排骨取出来。

炖的时候我家用炖盅，水加足，火候用慢火。大约两个小时，锅里的味道会自己把层次熬出来。出锅前再放盐，别一开始就下重口。因为苦瓜能不能吃出清爽而不是苦味，关键看盐和调料的分寸。要是不想苦味明显，就少放点盐，或者买嫩一点的苦瓜。鲍鱼和排骨本身就有鲜香，调味太多反而把汤味盖住了。

这碗汤有个特别管用的地方，喝到嘴里不油腻。黄豆的存在也很实在，它不像纯喝汤那样容易空胃，带一点饱腹感，孩子也能多吃两口米饭。夏天大人小孩都怕吃多了撑着不消化，有这碗汤垫一垫，夜里不至于饿得难受。

不过说到这里我必须把话说明白。苦瓜不是人人都适合天天碰，尤其是肠胃偏弱的人，吃多了也容易不舒服。我在家一般不让它天天上桌，轮着来，和另外两种汤一起安排。

第二种是丝瓜豆腐鲫鱼汤，这种更像快手牌里的稳当选手，解决的就是热得不想忙的那种日子。做这道汤，材料看起来不算多，但好不好喝，关键不在堆料，而在两步：煎鱼和加水的节奏。

鲫鱼洗净以后，先撒盐，加几片生姜腌大约二十分钟左右。腌到位，鱼肉和鱼皮才更紧实。锅里热油，用小火把鱼两面煎到微微发黄。很多人急着翻，鱼皮没固定容易碎，汤味就散了，口感也变了。鱼煎好之后，放葱段和豆腐块，直接加水就行。

加水这步也是讲究，水温别太低。先把开水加进去，大火煮五分钟，再换小火继续炖四分钟，汤汁浓一点，味道才会跟上。丝瓜去皮切块，最后放，煮一分钟左右就能出锅。丝瓜要是煮太久，会变软发黄，口感就不干净了。出锅再放盐，撒葱花，香味就出来了。

我家老人很在意鱼刺这件事。鲫鱼刺多是事实，吃的时候要耐心挑刺，别图快让孩子吞得急。热天人本来就烦躁，吃东西更要稳住节奏。你让老人和孩子慢慢吃，味道才真正到嘴里，吃得也更踏实。

第三种就适合周末或者你下班早一点的日子，鸽子四神汤。这个名字听着像滋补，但我家做法更偏日常温润，不搞浓油重香那套。四神指山药、茯苓、芡实、莲子，跟鸽子肉一起炖，口感偏温润。

鸽子处理我一般会认真一点：去掉内脏，头和尾巴也去掉，切成小块。清洗几次，把血水和污垢处理干净。山药、茯苓、芡实、莲子提前泡二十分钟左右，然后和鸽子肉、生姜放进炖盅里隔水炖。也可以直接用炖汤功能，省事。

炖的时间要看炖盅和鸽子大小，没有死规定，家里你就按熟度判断。出锅前加盐就行。山药会使汤变稠，如果想清淡一点，盐就别下重。鸽子这类食材属于高蛋白方向，热天吃也可以，但别把它当成每天必须的滋补。老人孩子都在家住着，我会按当日状态来排。谁胃口弱就少来点，谁更想喝有口感的就多炖会儿。

讲到这里，很多人会问一句：夏天是不是汤越浓越好？我在家照顾过老人和小孩，得到的答案很朴素。并不是。夏天喝汤也不是每个人都适合每天滋补汤，更不是越浓越滋润。

我们家就遇到过需要避开的情况。比如家里有人要减少食盐摄入，有人不能吃海鲜和豆制品，那就别把苦瓜鲍鱼黄豆排骨汤和鲫鱼汤照单全收。鸽子四神汤也不是人人都合适，茯苓和莲子这些东西吃多了也要看体质反应。做汤的核心不是把锅端上去就算完事，而是让家里人吃得舒服，吃得合适。http://www.blog.hckhxxc.cn/Article/detail/841459.shtmL
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还有一个很多人容易忽略的细节，是盐的时间点。你像苦瓜黄豆鲍鱼排骨汤，强调的是不宜一开始就加盐，出锅前再放，能更好掌握口味。鲫鱼汤也是出锅前再放盐，不是图省事一路放到底。四神汤同样是出锅前加入食盐。你提前下重口，味道确实很快，但清淡和层次也容易被你自己毁掉。夏天要的是顺口，不是咸得嘴发麻。

再说个跟生活贴得很近的事。我们在山东，天气热起来，大家吃饭更讲究一口能下去。我做汤的时候会同时准备两样东西：一碗米饭，外加一份清口小菜。比如拌黄瓜，或者蒸个蛋羹，尽量别让味道打架。汤负责把热量和水分交代清楚，小菜负责把口感拉开。这样一家人不会只盯着汤抢味，也不会因为汤太寡而吃不下。

我也经常被问到，为什么不直接多炒点凉拌菜？说句实话，凉拌菜能吃是能吃，但热天嘴上舒服，胃里未必踏实。汤水有热有香，胃更容易接受。尤其是老人和孩子，饭桌上不缺一碗温和的汤，晚间更不容易饿得难受。
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当然，提醒也得说在前面。像鲫鱼汤，刺多这件事要留心；像苦瓜汤，苦味怕不怕，跟你处理的细节有关；像鸽子四神汤，炖得越久不代表越好吃，关键是熟透和口味不过重。夏天的大事不是天天换花样，是把这几碗汤按时按需安排好，让一家人吃饭别将就。

这两天我家晚上吃饭的顺序也很简单。谁先开口谁先喝。孩子想要清爽就先来苦瓜那碗，老人说想吃点浓一点的就做鲫鱼汤，周末大家都在家比较有空就炖鸽子四神汤。你看，热天不需要多复杂的仪式感，一口汤的舒服感比什么都实在。