牛角包起酥不翻车：黄油和面团温度一致，层层酥到掉渣

今天聊牛角包。我以前做牛角包，配方换了好几个，面粉用贵的，黄油也舍不得省，可烤出来不是死面疙瘩，就是黄油从缝里漏成一滩。后来跟一位开酥师傅聊，他一句话点醒我：牛角包起酥的关键，不是你把面团揉得多好，而是黄油和面团的温度要一致。真的，这句话值我浪费的十斤面粉。温度一致，黄油才能和面团一样软硬，擀开时变成均匀薄层，烤的时候蒸汽一撑，层次才起。今天我把这点掰开揉碎讲，让你少走弯路。

一、为什么温度一致，牛角包才有层层酥？

牛角包的酥，不是靠泡打粉，也不是靠拼命揉面。它靠的是“面团包黄油，再折叠、再擀开”这套开酥动作。每一次三折，都会在面团里留下很多很多薄层：一层面团，一层黄油，再一层面团。进烤箱后，面团里的水分变成蒸汽，黄油融化留下空隙，蒸汽把层一层层撑开，最后才有那种一咬掉渣、内里蜂窝的酥脆感。

可如果黄油和面团温度不一致，麻烦就来了。黄油太冷，硬得像小石子，你一擀，它就在面团里碎成一片一片，层直接断掉；黄油太热，软得往面团里钻，一擀就糊成一片，烤出来不是酥，是油乎乎的死面饼。只有黄油和面团软硬度差不多，擀的时候才会一起变薄，层次才均匀。所以我说，牛角包起酥的关键：黄油和面团的温度要一致，真不是玄学，是命门。

二、到底几度？别只记数字，要摸硬度

一般来说，开酥时面团中心温度在4到8摄氏度左右，黄油片在13到15摄氏度左右，室温最好控制在18到22摄氏度。但这个数字不是死的，因为不同面粉、不同黄油、不同厨房，手感都不一样。最靠谱的判断是：黄油片能弯成U形不裂，手指按下去有印子但不塌；面团按下去不硬邦邦，也不软趴趴。两者摸起来硬度接近，就对了。

没有温度计怎么办？用手背试。黄油从冰箱拿出来太硬，就用擀面杖敲一敲，敲到能弯；面团太冷，就室温放几分钟回温。但千万别放到出油。夏天做牛角包，我建议开空调，或者垫一块冰袋、大理石。冬天也别在暖气旁边开酥，不然黄油分分钟给你脸色看。

三、从揉面开始，就给温度埋伏笔

做牛角包，面团从一开始就要冷。牛奶、鸡蛋用冰的，面粉可以提前冷藏。揉面时别用高速猛打，面温最好别超过24摄氏度。揉到能拉出薄膜就行，不用揉到吐司那种手套膜。揉好后压扁，包保鲜膜，冷藏至少4小时，最好过夜。这一步不只是松弛面筋，更是让面团温度降下来，为后面和黄油“同步”做准备。

黄油也要提前处理。把黄油切成片，夹在油纸里，敲成正方形，厚度均匀。别敲太薄，也别太厚。敲好后放冷藏，让它稳定到13到15摄氏度。记住，黄油不是越冷越好，太冷会碎；也不是越软越好，太软会融。它得和面团一样，有弹性，但不塌。

四、包油、擀折、松弛：速度就是生命

包油时，把冷藏好的面团擀成黄油片的两倍大，把黄油放中间，两边折过来捏紧。然后轻轻擀长，做第一次三折，包保鲜膜冷藏30分钟。拿出来再擀长，再三折，再冷藏。一般做三次三折就够了。每次擀之前，都摸一下黄油和面团。如果黄油硬了，等几分钟；如果黄油软了，立刻送回冰箱。别硬擀，硬擀一定破酥。

手粉要少，多了层次会粘不牢。动作要快，别慢悠悠。室温高的时候，我经常擀两下就停，摸一摸，再继续。做牛角包就像和温度谈恋爱，急不得，也冷不得。你尊重它，它才给你层层酥。

五、发酵烘烤，最后一步别掉链子

整形好的牛角包，最终发酵温度最好在26到28摄氏度，湿度75%左右。千万别超过30摄氏度，否则里面的黄油会融化，层次全毁。发到体积约1.5到2倍，轻晃烤盘有弹性就行。表面刷蛋液，烤箱提前预热到200摄氏度，转190摄氏度烤18到22分钟，看大小调整。出炉震一下盘，听到酥皮沙沙响，奶香、麦香、焦糖香一起冲出来，那一刻真的值得。

六、翻车救场小抄

黄油碎成渣，说明太冷，回温几分钟；黄油漏油，说明太热，立刻冷藏；面团回缩，说明松弛不够；层次粘一起，多半是手粉太多或温度太高。别慌，大部分问题都能靠“冷藏松弛”救回来。牛角包不怕你慢，就怕你热。http://m.mzmdy.com/Article/details/29452.shtml
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http://www.huayankejiw.com/Article/details/84237.shtml
http://m.easynest.cn/Article/details/89501.shtml

结语：

所以你看，牛角包起酥的关键：黄油和面团的温度要一致，不是玄学，是开酥的命根子。配方再好，温度不对，黄油和面团各玩各的，最后只能得到一块奶香死面饼。反过来，只要把它们调到一样的软硬，擀折时像一家人，烤出来就会层层分明、外脆内软、一咬掉渣。下次做牛角包，别急着追配方，先摸摸黄油和面团。你上次做牛角包翻车在哪一步？是黄油碎了、漏油了，还是发酵没层次？评论区告诉我，我挑最多的问题下期专门救。觉得有用先收藏，转给那个总说牛角包难的朋友。
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https://github.com/mackrebecca215/fnmkig/blob/main/keke_912440.md
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https://github.com/butlermichael1/tmmsoe/blob/main/keke_920048.md
https://github.com/kellykimberly2549/rxedwg/blob/main/keke_824249.md
https://github.com/chavezantonio39/ileqjq/blob/main/keke_408370.md
https://github.com/clarkholly90/vaokhm/blob/main/keke_235708.md
https://github.com/williamstamara0/jsckhh/blob/main/keke_052721.md
https://github.com/campbelljuan48/rejqwt/blob/main/keke_608986.md
https://github.com/kennedydennis59/zhqxhl/blob/main/keke_140461.md
https://github.com/collinsmelissa6/ddokcv/blob/main/keke_357888.md
https://github.com/morganbernard26/xubkim/blob/main/keke_515906.md
https://github.com/daniellisa91/bkxqtq/blob/main/keke_783338.md
https://github.com/millerlaura3999/aeainp/blob/main/keke_364392.md
https://github.com/harrisonthomas91/ynitxc/blob/main/keke_941125.md
https://github.com/thomascatherine106/apvqxv/blob/main/keke_076499.md
https://github.com/beckerkenneth2/mrtljc/blob/main/keke_050055.md
https://github.com/hayessamantha255/khbugd/blob/main/keke_019697.md
https://github.com/woodbrent9137/iyflkx/blob/main/keke_590131.md
https://github.com/mackrebecca215/fnmkig/blob/main/keke_219943.md
https://github.com/cochrancourtney349/pdqboz/blob/main/keke_750188.md
https://github.com/butlermichael1/tmmsoe/blob/main/keke_092909.md
https://github.com/kellykimberly2549/rxedwg/blob/main/keke_348128.md
https://github.com/chavezantonio39/ileqjq/blob/main/keke_200460.md
https://github.com/clarkholly90/vaokhm/blob/main/keke_056194.md
https://github.com/campbelljuan48/rejqwt/blob/main/keke_800947.md
https://github.com/williamstamara0/jsckhh/blob/main/keke_193464.md
https://github.com/collinsmelissa6/ddokcv/blob/main/keke_786782.md
https://github.com/morganbernard26/xubkim/blob/main/keke_237394.md
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https://github.com/kennedydennis59/zhqxhl/blob/main/keke_440560.md
https://github.com/harrisonthomas91/ynitxc/blob/main/keke_407247.md
https://github.com/thomascatherine106/apvqxv/blob/main/keke_937274.md
https://github.com/mackrebecca215/fnmkig/blob/main/keke_646720.md
https://github.com/hayessamantha255/khbugd/blob/main/keke_166043.md
https://github.com/beckerkenneth2/mrtljc/blob/main/keke_906936.md
https://github.com/woodbrent9137/iyflkx/blob/main/keke_823936.md
https://github.com/chavezantonio39/ileqjq/blob/main/keke_186783.md
https://github.com/cochrancourtney349/pdqboz/blob/main/keke_033313.md
https://github.com/clarkholly90/vaokhm/blob/main/keke_659333.md
https://github.com/kellykimberly2549/rxedwg/blob/main/keke_998262.md
https://github.com/campbelljuan48/rejqwt/blob/main/keke_610872.md
https://github.com/butlermichael1/tmmsoe/blob/main/keke_347802.md
https://github.com/williamstamara0/jsckhh/blob/main/keke_243790.md
https://github.com/collinsmelissa6/ddokcv/blob/main/keke_734290.md
https://github.com/millerlaura3999/aeainp/blob/main/keke_426204.md
https://github.com/daniellisa91/bkxqtq/blob/main/keke_550190.md
https://github.com/morganbernard26/xubkim/blob/main/keke_335527.md
https://github.com/beckerkenneth2/mrtljc/blob/main/keke_344209.md
https://github.com/thomascatherine106/apvqxv/blob/main/keke_691853.md
https://github.com/mackrebecca215/fnmkig/blob/main/keke_484900.md
https://github.com/hayessamantha255/khbugd/blob/main/keke_184909.md
https://github.com/woodbrent9137/iyflkx/blob/main/keke_795607.md
https://github.com/chavezantonio39/ileqjq/blob/main/keke_215723.md
https://github.com/kennedydennis59/zhqxhl/blob/main/keke_570784.md
https://github.com/harrisonthomas91/ynitxc/blob/main/keke_960530.md
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https://github.com/cochrancourtney349/pdqboz/blob/main/keke_937311.md
https://github.com/kellykimberly2549/rxedwg/blob/main/keke_578902.md
https://github.com/collinsmelissa6/ddokcv/blob/main/keke_371974.md
https://github.com/butlermichael1/tmmsoe/blob/main/keke_235747.md
https://github.com/campbelljuan48/rejqwt/blob/main/keke_971959.md
https://github.com/daniellisa91/bkxqtq/blob/main/keke_967892.md
https://github.com/williamstamara0/jsckhh/blob/main/keke_735087.md
https://github.com/beckerkenneth2/mrtljc/blob/main/keke_425948.md
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https://github.com/hayessamantha255/khbugd/blob/main/keke_699865.md
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https://github.com/chavezantonio39/ileqjq/blob/main/keke_264215.md
https://github.com/thomascatherine106/apvqxv/blob/main/keke_822019.md
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https://github.com/harrisonthomas91/ynitxc/blob/main/keke_824616.md
https://github.com/kennedydennis59/zhqxhl/blob/main/keke_414047.md
https://github.com/butlermichael1/tmmsoe/blob/main/keke_577328.md
https://github.com/kellykimberly2549/rxedwg/blob/main/keke_540129.md
https://github.com/campbelljuan48/rejqwt/blob/main/keke_470716.md
https://github.com/collinsmelissa6/ddokcv/blob/main/keke_753364.md
https://github.com/daniellisa91/bkxqtq/blob/main/keke_885203.md
https://github.com/beckerkenneth2/mrtljc/blob/main/keke_412508.md
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https://github.com/williamstamara0/jsckhh/blob/main/keke_951559.md
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https://github.com/hayessamantha255/khbugd/blob/main/keke_877641.md
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https://github.com/mackrebecca215/fnmkig/blob/main/keke_597804.md
https://github.com/harrisonthomas91/ynitxc/blob/main/keke_673364.md
https://github.com/thomascatherine106/apvqxv/blob/main/keke_168783.md
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https://github.com/kennedydennis59/zhqxhl/blob/main/keke_060945.md
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https://github.com/butlermichael1/tmmsoe/blob/main/keke_731570.md
https://github.com/campbelljuan48/rejqwt/blob/main/keke_054253.md
https://github.com/daniellisa91/bkxqtq/blob/main/keke_252229.md
https://github.com/collinsmelissa6/ddokcv/blob/main/keke_633482.md
https://github.com/millerlaura3999/aeainp/blob/main/keke_666486.md
https://github.com/beckerkenneth2/mrtljc/blob/main/keke_691426.md
https://github.com/cochrancourtney349/pdqboz/blob/main/keke_635620.md
https://github.com/mackrebecca215/fnmkig/blob/main/keke_994721.md
https://github.com/chavezantonio39/ileqjq/blob/main/keke_233906.md
https://github.com/harrisonthomas91/ynitxc/blob/main/keke_326413.md
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https://github.com/kennedydennis59/zhqxhl/blob/main/keke_854340.md
https://github.com/morganbernard26/xubkim/blob/main/keke_525959.md
https://github.com/woodbrent9137/iyflkx/blob/main/keke_418871.md
https://github.com/hayessamantha255/khbugd/blob/main/keke_764561.md
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https://github.com/butlermichael1/tmmsoe/blob/main/keke_178454.md
https://github.com/thomascatherine106/apvqxv/blob/main/keke_791994.md
https://github.com/campbelljuan48/rejqwt/blob/main/keke_005975.md
https://github.com/collinsmelissa6/ddokcv/blob/main/keke_666245.md
https://github.com/williamstamara0/jsckhh/blob/main/keke_391846.md
https://github.com/daniellisa91/bkxqtq/blob/main/keke_176623.md
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